Create stunning Poinsettia soaps in just under an hour! Perfect for thoughtful holiday presents. Great for DIY lovers, even beginners, using melt and pour. Surprise your loved ones with these handmade gems.
Click here to download the detailed Step-by-Step PDF Guide
Recipe (makes 7) :
Recommended Ingredients:
- 227g SFIC Cocoa Butter Melt and Pour Base
- 6g Winters Heirloom Fragrance Oil
- 250ml Isopropyl Alcohol in a Spray bottle
- 5x 0.15cc scoop of Italiano Rose Mica
- 5x 0.15cc scoop of Hunter Green Mica
- 1x 0.15cc scoop of Dark Rose Bio-Glitter Sparkle
- 2x 0.15cc scoop of Egyptian Gold Mica
- 2x 0.15cc scoop of Super Sparkle Light Gold
Recommended Utensils:
- 1x Guest Lotus Milky Way Soap Mold
- 2x Easy Pour Measuring Cup
- 1x 0.15 cc Plastic Scoop
- 3x small mixing cups
- 1x small sift
- Stainless Steel Heavy Gauge Soap
- Cutter
- Fine Paint Brush
- Scale
- Sticks to stir
- Gloves
Directions:
- Step 1: Cut all of the Cocoa Butter Melt and Pour Soap Base and divide into two easy pour cups.
- Step 2: In a microwave carefully heat up the Easy Pour Cups. It's best to heat up Melt and Pour Soap in 10 second intervals to prevent overheating. Once melted, add into one cup a mix of Italiano Rose Mica and Isopropyl Alcohol and in a second cup a mix of Hunter Green Mica and Isopropyl Alcohol. Stir each cup to make sure the colorants are evenly mixed in.
- Step 3: Add 3g of the Winters Heirloom Fragrance Oil into each cup. Mix well.
- Step 4: In a mixing cup mix some Isopropyl Alcohol with the Dark Rose Bio-Glitter Sparkle, then pour into the Base with the Italiano Rose Mica and stir well.
- Step 5: Now pour the Red Base into the Mold carefully ,be sure to only pour enough soap to cover the leaves and not go over the edge. Repeat this with the other cavities of the mold. Spritz some Isopropyl Alcohol to remove any bubbles. Then let the soap set for about 20 minutes.
- Step 6: Once the first layer has set, spritz some isopropyl alcohol onto it , this will help the layers to adhere to each other,then pour the green soap base into the mold and fill it all the way to the edge of each cavity. Spritz some Isopropyl Alcohol to pop any bubbles if needed. Now let the soap set for 1 hour.
- Step 7: Once fully hardened, unmold the soap by turning the Soap mold around and pushing firmly against the Mold containing the Soap. You will see how the suction breaks slowly as it releases.
- Step 8: Now use a mix of Isopropyl Alcohol and Egyptian Gold Mica and lightly paint with a paint brush the middle of each Poinsettia. Let the mica dry for a couple minutes.
- Step 9: Using a small sift add a little Super Sparkle Light Gold onto each Flower.
- Step 10: Your Poinsettia Soaps are now ready to use or package! Melt and Pour Soaps do not need to cure and can be used right away.
Common Issues:
Discoloration:
Fragrance Oils are most of the time the Culprit when a soap discolors. Some fragrance oils already have a dark color straight out of the bottle. Also you will want to check each fragrance for its Vanillin content. If the Fragrance contains Vanillin, your soap will over time turn to a tan color. Some Fragrances can even turn them to a very dark brown. Keep that in mind when wanting to make a bright or white colored soap.
Ripples:
Ripples can happen when the Soap is not fully hardened and the mold is being moved or a fan or air draft is blowing across the cooling soap.
Bubbles:
Bubbles happen when mixing fragrance and colorants into the soap, however they burst easily by being sprayed with Isopropyl Alcohol
Sweating:
If your Soap starts sweating after a few days of making it , it could be due to the humidity . It's best to package Melt and Pour Soap right away into shrink wrap or plastic wrap. Sweating does not mean that your soap is bad, it merely does not look appealing. However, sweating can also be caused by overheating the base. So be sure to not have it boil in your microwave . Even if the base starts steaming as you remove it from the microwave it's very likely burned.
If you have a lot of issues with your melt and pour sweating, try our SFIC Low Sweat White and SFIC Low Sweat Clear bases.
Botanicals:
While dried Botanicals look amazing in Soaps, they are not compatible with Melt and Pour Soap. Due to Melt and Pour Soap being Glycerin based it will rehydrate dried Botanicals and cause them to eventually mold . Lavender buds will turn the soap brown and moldy so its best to refrain from adding them into your soap. Besides, they will just fall off into your sink and clog up your drain.
Layers separating:
When adding a 2nd layer to a soap you may notice it separating from the first layer, if this happens you likely poured the 2nd layer too long after pouring the first. The bottom layer has to solidify but cannot be too cold. The top layer cannot be too hot nor too cold. You can also score the first layer and be sure to spritz some Isopropyl Alcohol as it helps the layers to adhere to each other.
Low lather:
Adding too much of an additive will reduce lather. This is often seen when adding powders or additional oils.
Powders such as clays or even activated charcoal in excess will increase the volume of the soap, with more of the powder there will be less soap hence your lather will be affected.
Adding oils will also cause this low lather affect. While adding oils will increase moisture it will decrease the ability to lather, as oil by itself does not lather.
To prevent a loss in lather use small amounts of additives to your soap, just enough to give the desired affect but not too much to disrupt the ratio of soap to additive.